Saturday, February 2, 2013

MEALS ON WHEELS (KAKI LIMA)

     If I haven't made it clear from previous posts, Indonesians like their food, and eat often. Some fried noodles for a snack, gado gado (do you recall? par-boiled veggies and fried tofu with tasty peanut sauce) for a mid-afternoon pick-me-up, and meatballs in soup almost any time.  Of course, convenience is always a consideration when foraging for that next food fix. That's where the kaki lima (literally "five legs") come in.

Kaki lima are food vendors selling from their bicycle carts. The name derives one of two ways, depending on who you believe. One orgin is said to be the 5-foot wide footpaths one finds in Indonesia. Since I have not seen any footpaths, I tend to discredit this option. The other orgin is that the hawker uses "five legs" --- three from the cart and two of his own. 



Local kaki lima sells Chinese won tons in soup.
He keeps a very clean cart.
In my neighborhood there are many kaki lima and they work tirelessly all day, often past midnight, and in all weather conditions. When there is a construction site in the area, or a busy mosque, they will arrive before lunch, park themselves in the nearest shade and set up for business. Some carry fuel to fire their wok or soup. They often carry ice to refrigerate or for drinks. While they pedal around the neighborhood, each has a distinctive and traditional sound they use to announce their presence. The bakso (meatball) vendor bangs a pot with his spoon. The chicken and noodles guy hits a wood block and produces a "thunk-thunk" sound. The bread guy actually has a recorded jingle he plays. The satay man sings a musical cry, "Saaa-tay." I have also seen kaki lima selling fruit and ice, roasted corn on the cob, fried rice with chicken and vegetables,  and assorted fritters (Indonesian corn fritters, flecked with red chili, are to die for!).

What about eating at a kaki lima? I must admit, I haven't yet. I hear the gado-gado guy by the school is terrific, but he runs out quickly and I haven't timed it right. And the roasted corn has eluded me. The meatballs are...sketchy, and they've been in the sun for hours. Ugh. Noodles, porridge and soup might be good, but so far I've shied away.


The locals certainly don't, though. About 6 pm, there are several of these hawkers doing a brisk business in front of our school, serving at outdoor tables, washing dishes, cooking and transacting. The teachers run out and chow down in between classes, usually for just a dollar or so. 


Come to think of it, what am I waiting for?



Lunch time in front of the mosque.
His cart is called "Meatball Love."



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