TWO SIGHTS IN SURABAYA

The Lonely Planet Guide to Indonesia hits it on the head, I think, when it says that “Surabaya is not an easy place to love.” Of all the places to go to on the island of Java, this second city--- with its 8-lane highways, crowded multi-plexes, corporate building and Indonesian Navy ---- decidedly misses the mark as a tourist city. In fact, I’ve only seen about five tourists in all. Which is refreshing, given the usual experience of travelling.

My first few days in Surabaya are fairly evenly divided between settling into my room, located in a village on the south side of this city of 4 million, and checking out a few sights. I travel mostly by taxi because they are crazy cheap --- $5. to go from one side of town to the other.

The old Arab Quarter is also called the Qubah. It is a maze of narrow lanes with two or three story residences, some with stores on the first floor. It’s like the medina I remember from Morocco. In the center of the medina is Surabaya’s oldest mosque, the Mesjid Ampel, named after the sultan who brought Islam to Java in 1461. As one gets closer to the mosque, these lanes become more commercial. You can buy dates, fried snacks, clothing, felt hats, percussion instruments and hookahs. A hawker dabs perfume on my arm to give me a sample. One of the younger kids wants to show me his Nirvana tee shirt and laughs with delight when I give him thumbs up. I amble to the entrance of the mosque where many are washing before prayer, but there is a sign in English restricting access to those in “Muslim costume.” Surely my own costume is not Muslim, so I turn tail.

The place is really evocative and incredibly Old World, and it is fully functional as a real community. Nothing touristy about it. But honestly, I didn’t feel altogether comfortable. I remember thinking I felt more welcome among Massai tribesmen in Africa, with whom I had even less in common. And I did not want to offend anyone by taking photos, so I have none.

My favorite place so far is the House of Sampoerna museum and factory, home of Indonesia’s premiere brand of kretek or clove cigarette. The building is a great 19^th century Dutch structure and houses cool and fun exhibits about the history of these clove cigarettes. The place smells great, too. On the top floor you can look out over the factory floor where women roll them by hand; some can do 4000 per day! I actually bought a pack or two when I dated Cheryl, because we both liked the smell of them. Unfortunately they are filterless and very high in tar. After the museum I went next door to the Café which is beautiful and serves great food. I had lunch --- a salad with peanut dressing called gado-gado and lemon iced tea --- for about $3.00 with tip.

The Founder's original street stall

Detail from the Cafe ceiling