24 HOURS (AND SPY GAMES) IN SINGAPORE

Recently I read somewhere that Singapore is like Switzerland in Asia --- beautiful, efficient, often luxurious, but a bit soul-less. Maybe some truth there, although 24 hours is not enough time to give it a fair shake.

I went to Singapore for a visa run. It was easiest to process my work visa through an agent who does this efficiently and frequently for my employer. I was instructed to meet him in a shopping mall fast food stall. He’s a pretty big guy; looks like a Sikh Indian in rumpled business clothes, a greying beard and Armani black-and-white sunglasses. He nods from his table in the shade. I walk over, say his name and put my documents and passport on the table next to him and wait while he peruses and nods. When he looks up at me expectantly, I hand him 230 Singaporean Dollars. He nods again and we agree to meet at my hotel lobby at 4:15 pm later that day. Giving a stranger your passport for eight hours is a bit un-nerving. And the fact that he showed up half an hour late did not help. But he delivered the goods – my passport with a proper work visa for Indonesia.

I do have three recommendations for Singapore. The Orchard Road section of the city is an incredible feast for the shopper of fine things. Beautiful, modern buildings with artsy architecture house the top names in fashion from around the world. There are many fine upscale hotels (including the Regent/Four Seasons, where I was upgraded and treated very well) for about $250. per night.

I told the lovely manager at the Regent that I wanted her steer on some dumplings, and she sent me to Din Tai Tung 435 Orchard Road, Level 4. This restaurant, originally from Taiwan, now has branches in a handful of Asian cities.  In 1993 it was ranked by The New York Times as one of the top 10 restaurants in the world. The dumplings (and everything else) are spectacular. Also the very best cold lemongrass drink I ever had. Four dishes and a tasty bev for about $40. Highly recommended.

Finally, the Singapore Botanic Gardens (http://www.sbg.org.sg) is a great way to get a little exercise outdoors, and see some wonderful plant exhibits. The Gardens were founded in 1822 and have gone through many incarnations. The Orchid Garden is the only area that charges admission ($4 US), but it is very worthwhile.