UBUD FINALE

       I just left Ubud, Bali a few hours ago, and I’m already scheming about how to return, with Cheryl this time. It’s such a beautiful and fascinating place, and offers so much to its visitors.

        Ubud sits in the gentle foothills of Bali among rice paddies, and has patches of jungle and streams. Nearby is the majestic Mount Batur, an active volcano, with a lava field and lake a few miles away. Ubud and environs are naturally attractive in a serene kind of way, but they are not the big draw. This area is the cultural center and archive of Balinese arts, especially music, dance, crafts and painting. These arts are publicly performed, taught and celebrated on a daily basis, so they are very much alive. A visitor can see and learn first hand about Balinese dance, gamelan music, painting, wood carving, whatever.

        Most importantly, religion in Ubud and all of Bali is a heady mix of Hinduism and animism, and it is very much part of day to day life. Offerings to spirits are made at family compounds, which always include a temple, but also at spiritually important sites, businesses, trees, on motorcycles, many places. Most offerings take the form of small “dishes” made of palm leaves with a flower or two, maybe a spoonful of cooked rice on a banana leaf and a stick of incense. They are sprinkled with water while a short prayer is recited. Living in the midst of this kind of open spirituality makes you begin to think about your surroundings in a different way; everything has a “vibe” to it. There are also some lovely old buildings, natural places and public temples where a visitor can see culture and religion celebrated together naturally, and it is a very affirming experience.

        There are three or four main streets downtown with good independent clothing and craft shops (no international chains, I’m happy to say), restaurants, a few bars, and a very helpful tourist information center that sells tickets to cultural events and is located across from the palace complex. There are also two fine art museums ( I really enjoyed the Neka) and several galleries.

        Finally, Ubud has developed into a center for body care, yoga, spas and health centers, reflexology, and meditation. Many of the hotels have their own spas and packages.

        I love the way people dress in Ubud. Great colors and beautiful fabrics in sarongs for both sexes, and the men wear headscarves tied at the front. The younger people have a more modern take on style, but they also look very cool.

       I must say, this place has a strong personal magnetism for me, maybe because I had so much fun here. Please check out some of my recommendations that follow. Trust me, you will find plenty to love about Ubud.

Komaneka at Tanggayuda. A bit of a splurge, yes, but very much worth it. This Trip Advisor “Travellers’ Choice Winner for 2013” has it all ---- great service, beautiful villas (mine with a private plunge pool), lovely grounds, complimentary tea time and yoga, a personal assistant to help with plans, logistics and any problems, great food, homemade cookies and fruit in the room, a cooking school, etc. etc. The reviews are excellent, and they don’t lie: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g297701-d626311-Reviews-Komaneka_at_Tanggayuda-Ubud_Gianyar_Bali.html.  There are four Komaneka properties in Ubud, and they run a shuttle or provide free transport to any number of places in town. They are simply lovely people with a great attitude about genuine service. A wonderful home away from home.

Bali Eco Cycling Tours  I am pleased to plug Bali Eco Cycling Tours

http://www.baliecocycling.com/cycling-tour/, although this fine company has already received accolades from the likes of Lonely Planet, The New York Times and others. I did the day long bicycling tour, which starts with breakfast and views of Mt. Batur and its crater lake, 

breakfast view

travels mostly down hill on easy back roads, and makes interesting, educational stops along the way. We stopped at a coffee and spice plantation, a typical Balinese family compound, in rice fields to do some harvesting, at a wood carving shop, at a 300 year old Banyan tree considered a sacred place, and ended with a terrific buffet lunch including smoked duck and other delights. About $36. Excellent value and so much fun. An exciting moment for me was barely avoiding a live green pit viper (very poisonous) when a local called out “Snake!” and pointed to a spot about 10 feet ahead in my path (yes, Frank, more snake adventures).

Working in the rice paddies. The ladies thought we were hysterical.

 50 shades of green in the terraced rice paddies 

Bali Bird Walks. Long-time resident and eccentric bird man Victor Mason founded Bali Bird Walks 15 years ago. It’s a small operation and an intimate experience. The web site is here: 

http://www.balibirdwalk.com/index.html. Nowadays the amazing Su takes visitors out for half a day and a terrific lunch for $37. You can visit rice fields, streams and a little jungle, and besides 30 or so bird species, you get to see butterflies, medicinal plants, insects and whatever else Su’s eagle eyes observe. 

Su on our bird walk --- personality plus

We met a farmer who carved up a fresh coconut for us. The high point for me was the Java Kingfisher (because I’m a kingfisher guy), but just being with Su was immensely educational and entertaining. A lot of fun and a wonderful way to see Ubud. Highly recommended! A short ride from Ubud will take you to Bali Bird Park, where you can roam several acres to see 250 species of birds in attractive aviaries, open spaces and interactive situations. The Park is well-maintained and beautifully designed. Special draw for me were several species of Birds of Paradise from Papua, and large hornbills which park employees put on my shoulders for photos.

"Hornbills...on my shoulders...make me happy..."

Ibu Oka – Warung Babi Guling. Wiki Travel calls this humble eating establishment “a place of pilgrimage.” Every day Mrs. Oka serves up her famous babi guling or spit roasted pig to the masses from 11 am until the day’s supply runs out. When you order “the special” you get a little of everything --- the crispy skin, some meat, some blood sausage and fried offal, the works. It’s delicious and for $3.00, maybe the best bargain around. Some local people I met said they like their babi guling a bit spicier, but I was not about to quibble. In fact, I restrained myself from having seconds.

Tasty suckling pig, great cheap eats

Traditional Balinese Dance. It’s easy to see wonderful traditional dance in Ubud. There are maybe seven or eight performances each week at different venues around town, many in incredible natural surroundings. Tickets are sold at the venue or the tourist office for $7 or $8 dollars. The costumes are colorful and beautiful, the dancers are very talented, and there’s a full gamelan orchestra providing music. 

Masked dancer at palace performance