ANAK ANAK BAIK BAIK (The Kids Are Allright)

My English students here are roughly 9 to 18 years old, and some of my classes have ten or so students in the 9-10 age group.

I certainly did not plan things that way. First of all, I have never taught anyone anything at that age. My students in the US have all been mature adults. Secondly, I must be honest enough to say that I am not a person who is initially drawn to all children all the time. John is not the guy running up to kids in public places to engage them or cooing at toddlers in stores. Up to now I would say that for me, the connection happens or not on a case-by-case basis. It depends on the child and my mood. Lastly, as I get older I notice an increasing desire for quiet and perhaps a decreasing amount of patience in my reserves each year compared to the year before.

To be fair, when I came to Surabaya, my job description certainly included the possibility of teaching youngsters. But I thought that given my own age, background and experience, I would probably be charged with other duties. I was wrong.

Now here’s the surprise: I really like the kids, and I am absolutely fine with teaching them. In the great majority of cases, Indonesian children are polite, smart, receptive to learning, and ready to engage. Of course they have high energy. They get excited and bubble over sometimes like all kids do, but they respect the teachers and will calm down with “settling activities” --- like drawing--- which we teachers carry in our bag of tricks. The kids are very often adorable and sweet, and they want to teach you about Indonesia and their world. Sure, there may be one or two exceptions I can think of, where a kid is often disruptive (due to over-indulgent parents, perhaps). But truly, these are very rare instances, and they can be managed.

Last week I substituted for another teacher who was on holiday. The class was young, maybe eight students aged10-12. The lesson was about local customs for holidays and birthdays, and the children could not wait to tell me about theirs. When we played a team game, they supported their teammates, and showed natural sportsmanship. At the end of the class, each of the students came up to me on the way out, said “Thank you, Mr. John,” took my hand and pressed it briefly to his forehead. I was touched, as you can imagine.

Outside the classroom, I notice that Indonesian kids from all walks of life are naturally curious about me as different from what they usually see. If they stare at me I wink at them. And because they are not inhibited adults,  they will often approach me for a brief interaction. These moments are usually lots of fun.

Last week in a department store I was paying for an item at the checkout counter when a young man, about 9 or 10 ran up to the counter and said “Hi, mister.” When this happens I usually bend down so we can be at the same height. “Hey, buddy. How are you today?” We chatted for a minute, and then his father came over with his other, younger son. “He wants to practice his English with you.” I told him his boy had great energy and personality. Turns out he is an aspiring drummer. I turned to my new friend, told him I played the guitar, and maybe we could play sometime. The younger boy didn’t want to be left out, and followed me as I was leaving his father and brother. I stopped again and we talked a minute also. Then smiles and waves all around. It wasn’t a big deal, but they were all so pleasant and made me feel like a celebrity. Just a nice moment.

Obviously there’s a lesson in all of this. Keeping an open mind and not pre-judging the work of teaching children gave me the opportunity to discover something new about myself. It opened up the possibility of enjoying an experience I did not naturally relish. In a way, it sort of “jump started” or renewed my relationship with a segment of the population I don’t interact with often. And it broadened my work world and ESL resume.

All in all, another small gift from my time in mondo Indo.

As I finish this post, outside dusk is falling under a soft rain, and the call to prayer from the local mosque is being chanted over its loudspeakers. Thanks for visiting here, and please check back soon.

JOYS OF YOGYA (Part 2)

Yogyakarta is an excellent tourist destination for many reasons, but I would list reason #1 as accessibility to a great number of varied tourist experiences, both inside and a short distance outside the city. There are organized tour options available from agents downtown and at the hotels, or hire a car and guide for relatively short money.

Just 25 km north of here, the Merapi volcano towers over the city, a perpetual object of both fear and reverence for Javans. This is the most active volcano in a country of many, and thousands of people live on the flanks of the mountain despite a very real danger of eruption. The volcano emits smoke most days of the year, and serious eruptions in 1994, 2006 and 2010 resulted in pyroclastic flows and death tolls. There is new museum and tourist site on the mountain side where you can hire a 4x4 to tour the areas impacted by the 2010 eruption.

Gunung Merapi ("Fire Mountain")

Perhaps the most beautiful place I’ve seen since arriving in Indonesia is Borobudur, a spectacular Buddhist monument constructed in the mid 9^th century, at a time when Java was ruled by a Buddhist-Hindu dynasty. It is built from two million stone blocks in the form of a large symmetrical stupa, with square platforms topped by circular platforms in a distinctive design. There are 2,672 relief panels showing scenes from the life of the Buddha, and 504 statues of the Buddha. A great part of monument’s beauty is its location, literally wrapped around a mountain, with green terraced rice paddies and soaring volcanic peaks in the distance. No wonder this is Indonesia's most visited sight. Borobudur benefitted from a UNESCO restoration in the 70s, and was made a World Heritage site in 1991.

The "skirt" was required, not sure why

Borobudur panorama

As part of my tour of this area I visited the local agricultural village of Candirejo, where a new home stay program has been developed to give young people an idea of day-to-day life here. A young man showed us around by horse-drawn cart. There were ripe rambutan fruits to pick and eat off the trees, beautiful rice paddies, and a small cassava chip production facility (these salted, fried chips are extremely tasty, especially warm out of the fry pot!).

through the fields in Candirejo

The temples of Prabanan are just 17 km from Yogya, on the road to the town of Solo. These also were built in the 9^th century, before Java was converted to Islam. The largest and finest temple is dedicated to Shiva, with lavishly carved “medallions” depicting scenes from the most well-known  Hindu epic, the Ramayana. The other memorable temples are those to Vishnu and Brahma. All are outstanding examples of ancient Hindu art. Prabanan is also much less of a tourist destination, which makes visiting a bit easier.

At Prabanan, in cognito as one of The Village People

All of these sights can be conveniently combined with others for a good day trip, but do consider at least two or three days in the area. Farther afield, in Solo city, there is a beautiful palace and kraton with displays of dance masks, jewelry, and gifts to its sultan (but these cannot rival Yogya’s kraton). Across the street from the kraton in Solo is a small antiques flea market called Triwindu, which is fun and very inexpensive from what I could see. Finally, an old Dutch enclave in Solo called Kampung Laweyan constructed in 1546, houses a warren of small cottages that have their own boutique batik businesses. Most of these are generations old. Here you can see batik being made and buy the finest quality for a bit more than wholesale.

Well, that’s some of my trip to Yogyakarta. I didn't get to write about Parangtritis Beach, Kasongan pottery or the herbal medicine called jamu, but maybe at some later point. I encourage all travelers to Indonesia to spend some time in Yogya to taste the rich flavor of Jawa (“Java” in Javanese). It’s a great city, with plenty of fun things to see and do, even on a budget.

Thanks for reading!

JOYS OF YOGYA (Part 1)

wood carving of the Sultan's seal 

For Christmas break I spent five nights in Yogyakarta (pronounced ‘Jogjakarta’ and called ‘Yogya’ for short). This city of about 700,000 is the heart and soul of Java, the place where its traditions, culture and arts are most alive today. I was indeed very fortunate to have the guide services of Purwana (Mr. Luna), who is Javan, and a tireless student of Javan culture and language. Among his many talents, Mr. Luna will randomly sing selections by the Bee Gees and Abba for his clients at no additional charge.* 

But I digress. Yogya is still ruled by a sultan, who lives in the kraton, a small walled city/compound built in the mid-18^th century, with its own cottage industries, the sultan’s palace, official buildings and a museum. About 1000 of its residents are employed by the sultan; I was told that service is considered an honor and without pay. You see the men dressed in sarongs of the sultan’s batik with headscarves and often a kris or short ceremonial dagger sheathed at their backs.

Sultan's gamelan musician-note puppets in background

The Golden Pavilion in the center of the kraton features a beautiful carved wooden roof, chandeliers, and marble floor. It is the site of puppet shows, classical dance and gamelan music almost daily. 

Ceiling detail, Golden Pavilion

There’s also a square with two ancient banyan trees where people traditionally waited to petition the sultan for favors. Nearby, you can see the remains of an amazing pleasure park of pools, waterways, rooms and terraces called by its Dutch name, waterkasteel or water castle. It was once used by the sultan and his entourage as a retreat for pleasure and dalliances. My Lonely Planet says that legend has the Dutch architect executed to preserve the secrecy of the pleasure rooms and their access.

Entrance to the Water Castle

Not all of Yogya is ancient. The main drag that runs through the city, JI Malioboro, is a lively scene of food stalls, stores, and batik shops. After attending a classical dance performance, Mr. Luna, his brother and I had a fried fish dinner sitting cross-legged on mats in a warung on Malioboro. It was quite a scene – lots of hawkers, bad street music and performances by “lady-men” dancing to Lady Gaga, all wandering from stall to stall. Here’s the weird thing: everyone gives the performers money. Maybe it’s to go away, but they get donations. Harvard Square was never this easy.

Also in town are some great batik factories where the art and tradition of real batik lives on. And then there's theYogya bird market --- definitely worth a stop if you’re in need of a pair of lovebirds or fighting cock or trained pigeon.

Batik fabric

Colored chicks in the bird market

Finally, about 5 km from town is Kota Gede, the hub of Yogya’s traditional silver industry since the 1930’s. Good shopping and high quality goods specializing in filigree, all done on site. No, of course I didn’t forget Cheryl.

Where to stay: I broke up my time by staying at two properties, both highly recommended. First the Hyatt, which is lush, expansive and boasts great views of Merapi http://yogyakarta.regency.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels-yogyakarta-regency/index.jsp?null. Then, The Phoenix, a lovely deco hotel and Trip Advisor top pick near downtown http://www.accorhotels.com/gb/hotel-5451-the-phoenix-hotel-yogyakarta-mgallery-collection/index.shtml. Both hotels are a terrific value.

Classical dancer at performance for Sultan 12/27/12

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Coming up next: Joys of Yogya (part 2): Around Yogyakarta, including Merapi Volcano, Borobudur (Buddhist temple site) and Prambanan (Hindu temple site). Come back soon, okay?

* Singing guides seem to follow me around the world. In Jaipur, one of our guides sang traditional music from Rajasthan to entertain us. During our tour one of his fans accosted us on the street and pressed our man into singing a song for Diwali. He did not refuse. See photo at bottom right of: http://www.workingwithenglish.com/contact_us.html

CUPPA POO COFFEE

Today we go from the scatological to the sublime, so hold on to your coffee cups and join me for a look at the world of kopi luwak or loewak coffee.

Kopi luwak refers to Indonesian coffee (mostly Sumatra, Java and Sulawesi) beans which have been eaten, digested and excreted by an Asian Palm Civet (species Paradoxunus). The civet apparently chooses the ripest coffee berries for their juicy pulp. In its digestive tract, the coffee’s peptides shorten and create more amino acids, resulting in a tastier flavor profile. The “fermented” beans emerge from the digestive process fairly intact, and still wrapped in layers of the coffee fruit’s mucilage. I can tell you, it’s a sight to see. No, better yet, see for yourself:

Loewak coffee is the most expensive coffee in the world, and sells for $100-$600 per pound. Proponents and producers rave about smoothness and flavor.  Here is Tim Hayward’s blog from The Guardian:

"On first taste it's pretty fantastic with all of the higher notes you tend to get with a well-roasted bespoke coffee (regular civilian drinkers, myself included, seem to see coffee in terms of big, bassy low-end flavours and smells)... [T]he defining characteristic is a lovely, long, subtly nutty aftertaste that looks like it's going to carry on right through to the bacon sandwich I'm lining up as breakfast."

On the other hand, detractors "poo-poo” such comments as completely overblown. Tim Carman, food writer for the Washington Post reviewed kopi luwak available in the US and concluded "It tasted just like...Folgers. Stale. Lifeless. …I couldn’t finish it."

So what is the truth here? Your man in the field wanted to study the issue up close and personal.

My friend Pak Luna, Javan guide par excellence, took me out to his buddy Ali’s coffee company outside of Yogyakarta. Loewak Coffee Co. is a small scale, small production facility where the magic happens. On the day I visited, Japanese and Italian visitors sat around ooh-ing and aah-ing about Ali’s product and taking home bags of 100 and 200 grams at a price equivalent to $320. per pound.

Ali was affable and high energy (I guess I would be too if I drank coffee all day). He even offered his guests a chance to hold the civets, but I passed after I saw one lock onto an Italian girl’s breast. Apparently animal rights people have decried the use of loewak coffee because the civets are kept in cages and treated badly. But Ali’s critters seemed pretty sanguine about their conditions. The one who molested la signorina seemed to be smiling, in fact.

Then, “Would you like to try my coffee?” Yes, please.

While the coffee brewed, Ali explained that most of what passes for loewak coffee on the market is actually only 2-5% loewak mixed with other Arabica coffee. He showed me the "ingredients" panel on a bag of a competitor’s product to illustrate. His product is 100%, the real deal. Then he served me a cup, black with a little sugar.

How about the coffee? Delicious, but not incredible. It tasted like smooth Italian espresso, with a noticeable lack of acidity that might encourage a second cup. I convinced Ali to sell me 50 grams, which I keep with my most valuable possessions. John Mullin, this cup’s for you – if you dare!

Happy new year to all. Thanks for looking in!

INDO FRUIT RUJAK and A DECO JEWEL

One of the most delicious things about Indonesia is its fresh fruit, and one of the best ways to enjoy it is fruit rujak. This is essentially fruit salad made of tropical fruit with a few optional ingredients and served with a sweet and spicy-hot sauce called bumbu. The bumbu is made with palm sugar, tamarind, ground sautéed peanuts, and just a bit of shrimp paste and chilis.

Fruit rujak is the perfect food. It's healthy, and it tastes wonderful, with an explosion of tastes and flavors in every bite. 

Some of the staff in my office made a big batch of the ingredients for a holiday treat, and let us make our own individual bowls. There was mango, papaya, cucumber, tofu, pineapple, melon, and a white crunchy root, the name of which I did not retain. See the pic below. Note that the green plastic container had extra sambal for those who like things extra spicy. I'm a little sheepish to admit that I went back for thirds. But honestly, I could not help myself...

The sublime salad, ready for assembly.
Extra bumbu for me, please.

The Rujak Elves

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The Hotel Majapahit Surabaya www.hotel-majapahit.com is the place I would stay as a visitor to the city. Built in 1910, the interior is a stunning example of elegant Deco architecture, with colanades, a green courtyard with fountain, and what is reputed to be the best Chinese restaurant in the city. I stopped in at the bar/café to have an espresso while checking out guitars downtown. The friendly bartender told me that the Hotel is in its original condition, which makes it even cooler. My copy of Lonely Planet says that rooms here start at $110, an amazing value. Let me know if you're coming to visit!

Hotel sitting area; high tea served

Entrance decorated for holidays

Bar detail with carved wood and stained glass

Deco figures in paneled bar

BEING CLOSE WHEN FAR AWAY / TWO GOOD MEN

I have been meditating on the challenges of being close to people who matter to you when you’re half a world away from them. Even with all the incredible technology we have in telecom and internet, I find that physical distance is real and palpable. Skype is a modern miracle for which I am very grateful, but it is a far cry from relating in person, certainly not the same as sharing space with another. Making true, warm human contact with friends and family is a challenge here in Indo.  It may be the main downside of being away like this.

Before now, I have never spent the holidays away from my family and friends. So this year feels very weird. And while I have been called “Scrooge” because I think we have made Christmas so terribly commercialized and needlessly stressful, still I am missing loved ones a little more at the moment because I’m in no way “home for the holidays.”

One thing I can do is use this blog to tell you: I love and miss you all, and I wish you wonderful holidays, with many blessings for the coming year. Thank you for your support and being in touch while I’m away. I carry you all in my heart. And a special mistletoe kiss to my beautiful wife, who is excellent in every way :) (sorry, baby--- no bling this year…)

On a sad note, two relatives passed on very recently. In giving condolences to their family, I felt this same sense of insurmountable distance. Dropped cell phone calls and e-mails do not help when it comes to giving comfort or expressing sorrow. But I do want to acknowledge these two special men here.

My dad’s youngest brother, my Uncle Domenic or Mimi, was a good man, sweet and kind. He was a stone worker, I believe, and devoted to his family. I remember him mostly from childhood, when he spoke to us kids in soft and understanding tones. He was easy to be with, and always had a great smile on his face. My cousin Anthony e-mailed me first that Mimi was in hospice, then soon after that to say he had passed on. He enjoyed a good long life; he was 95 years old.

Cousin Ray has always been very close to our family. When I was a kid, Ray worked as a teenager at The Scoop, the local soda fountain and candy store near my house in Queens. I knew him for over 46 years. An incredibly warm and caring man, Ray looked in on anyone who was sick or needed him. He was straight, strong, real Old School Italian in the best sense, and completely dedicated to family. He battled pancreatic cancer for years, but never talked about it or complained. In fact, he made it clear that he didn’t "want to see puppy dog eyes;” that was his way of saying he refused to be pitied. Being with Ray was never about him; it was always about you. We all loved him, saw him often, and kept in close contact. As time went on, we watched with alarm as Ray got weaker and weaker from disease and treatment. Through it all,  he showed amazing strength and resilience. Most importantly, he continued to live his life on his own terms. The man had character with a capital “C.” I called Ray and Annette before I came out here. I am so glad I did. During our minutes on the phone, he was warm and easy-going and wished me a good adventure. I’m welling up now thinking about it. RIP Ray.

MONDO KOMODOS (at the zoo)

It seems unlikely that I’ll ever reach the isolated islands of Komodo and Rinca, home to  the world’s largest lizard, the Komodo dragon. Lucky for me, the zoo at Surabaya ---Kebun Binatang Surabaya --- has a fine collection of these bad boys. Over 30 hatched here in 2009.

The zoo itself is pretty tired, and in desperate need of a facelift.  But there is a good collection of animals with an aquarium of sorts, and the park has a nice layout with plenty of open space for both man and beast. On weekends, families converge for picnics and photo ops, and the kids often come dressed up in animal costumes (which look cute but uncomfortably warm).

Back to the Komodos. Locally known as ora, these fearsome creatures can be 9’ long. With powerful legs and jaws, sharp teeth, razor-like claws, and a tail that can deliver a knock-down blow, they are a dangerous enemy. Dragons can swallow a goat whole. To hunt larger animals like buffalo, they will use the potent and poisonous bacteria in their mouths to bite once and wait until their prey is weakened enough to finish off. The males will also try to eat the female’s eggs, leading to marital spats that make the legendary Elizabeth Taylor-Richard Burton smackdowns seem like a honeymoon.

Here are some pictures from the dragon dens. Note the free-for-all at feeding time (I think the meal was raw rack of lamb or goat), and the white forked tongue in the solo shot. Man, these are not warm and fuzzy creatures.

A few other pictures worth showing. This Sumatran tiger came up to the edge of his cage to look me right in the eye. His neighbor was getting fed with a chicken by means of a clothes line pulley; he leapt up to tear it down and make short work of devouring it. Beautiful cats.

The bird is a species of hornbill with an incredibly ornate and colorful bill and "eye shadow."