LOVELY LOMBOK

       I have been hearing about Lombok since I first began reading up on Indonesia, months before I ever set foot on its soil. What I heard was peppered with glowing superlatives, from trustworthy sources who eschewed corporate resort hype and cruise line adverts in Travel & Leisure. Lombok’s first devotees were front-line tourists --- divers, trekkers, back-packers, and sun-seekers.  They found nearby Bali a bit overly-touristed, or maybe tainted in the aftermath of bombings in 2002 and 2005. In any case, it has been only seven or eight years since this part of the island arc called Nusa Tenggara has truly come into its own. And friends, that’s a major part of the charm.  Lombok still offers a very authentic experience. It feels “real.”

       And my God, it is incredibly beautiful. The three Gilli Islands are like the quintessential tropical islands of your dreams. They offer simple bungalows on fabulous beaches at bargain prices ($40/night), lots of live coral for primo diving and snorkeling, surf and even some nightlife if you want it (on Gilli Trawangan). On the main island of Lombok, the impossibly blue-green waters roll up to miles of superb white sand beaches, and I can report that there were few people on them (it is technically still rainy season here, although there has been no rain during my stay). The northern interior of Lombok boasts the majestic Rinjani volcano, Indonesia’s second highest peak. It is protected by its own national park, and there are 2-3 day treks for the willing. Lombok also offers beautiful waterfalls, coffee and rice terraces, a monkey forest, a crater lake, Balinese Hindu temples, superb seafood, pearls and weaving, and the warm hospitality of the Sasak Muslims who call the island home. Best of all, because this is Indonesia, paradise comes at a price that can work for almost any budget, with as much added luxury as you want (and can afford).

      But please don’t wait too long. One can detect the first whiff of corporate leisure development and infrastructure in the wind. Small condominiums are being built on the Gillis, and beautiful Kuta Beach on the south shore has apparently been slated for a $600 Million development project. Before the digging begins, I would suggest everyone check out Lovely Lombok without delay. Some highlights and notes follow:

Tugu Hotel Lombok ----- Tugu Hotel in Lombok http://www.tuguhotels.com/lombok/?menu=1# certainly has location going for it. Lonely Planet calls Sira Beach “insanely gorgeous” and I could not agree more. Dramatic views of Rinjari, expansive white sands, great swimming and snorkeling, and swaying coconut palms set the scene. 

Tugu Lombok on Sira Beach from the water

The Hotel has only 17 accommodations, set on beautiful grounds filled with enormous antique Hindu and Javan statuary and two buildings that were faithfully reconstructed from 200-year-old originals. The service is exceptional --- friendly and attentive without overdoing it. Examples: the staff baked a cake decorated with “Thank you for staying with us” in chocolate; prepared ice and fresh aloe upon hearing about my sunburn; carved up a coconut and presented to me it with straws and a spoon because I happened to be sitting near a palm they were harvesting. The rooms are very large, well-appointed and comfortable. Mine had its own front yard with table. Some may not love the semi-enclosed (but completely private) outdoor bathroom. I did one tour and a day of snorkeling in the Gillis --- both arranged by the hotel --- and the service was terrific. The Tugu also offers a daily “high tea” service with complimentary sweet and savory snacks, bicycles, a free half hour massage, and daily tropical fruit in your room. Full breakfast, included in my $258. per night room price (all tax included), was sumptuous. And you can take meals in any number of places on the property, including the beach.

       There is a downside to staying at a place like Tugu Lombok. One disadvantage is that by booking activities through the hotel you are paying quite a bit more than if you booked them yourself, using outside providers. The second disadvantage is related to the first: the location of the property is a bit isolated, and leaving it is not made easy. Personally, I can live with the downside. On vacation, convenience is king, and door to door (or shore to shore) service has value worth paying for. The hotel vetts providers, answers for any problems and assures a better quality experience. To the second point, I am not a guy who needs to be on vacation with everyone else. I am fine being a bit isolated if the location makes a good trade-off, and in this case it does, no doubt.

Snorkeling in the Gillis ----- These three tiny islands are maybe 20 minutes by boat from Sira, and have become a vacation hotspot, especially the largest of the three, Trawangan. On the mid-sized Gilli Meno I spent about an hour “on island” wandering past the shoreline cottages, visiting a turtle sanctuary and having a coffee with two local guys, one of whom lent me a guitar to play. Very mellow.

Saved turtles at the sanctuary supported by donations only

       It’s so much fun feeling like you’re swimming in a giant aquarium, and this is the experience of snorkeling around the coral reefs of the Gillis. The fish are varied, with all the psychedelic colors you love in tropical fish. Pencil fish, small barracuda, angel fish, and parrot fish, schools of them. The biggest thrill for me was seeing an old sea turtle, maybe 3 feet long. He swam to the surface, put his head above water, and then descended into the depths.

Snorkeling near Gilli Aire. Boat guys did not "get" the zoom .

Lucky egg-eating eel

Pura Lingsar ----- The largest and holiest temple compound in Lombok is a stone’s throw from the town of Mataram. Built in 1714 and sitting amid deep green rice fields, Pura Lingsar is multi-denominational, although its architecture is Balinese, and both Hindu and Muslim priests live on the grounds. There is an enclosed holy pond dedicated to Vishnu and at the small opening to the pond you may feed hard-boiled eggs to the Holy Eels (great name for a rock band, no?). It is supposedly lucky to see the eels. My local guide said that a tour bus from Jakarta we saw departing was a bit miffed at seeing no eels. I saw two, a monster and one that was mid-sized. Supposedly I am blessed. Vishnu, if you are listening, I would like to share one eel’s worth of luck with those sad folks from Jakarta.

Monkey Forest ----- They line up along the roadside watching cars go by, and they appear to be hitchhiking. My guide stopped at one spot where some locals were watching the monkeys. I had half a bag of peanuts which I gave to a local kid so that he could feed one of the simians. The monkey in question showed its gratitude by promptly engaging another monkey in sexual intercourse, right next to the young boy. His mother gave me a nasty look. I just shrugged with my palms up. Hey, lady, I was only trying to be helpful… 

The Best Fish I Ever Tasted ----- This award is no small thing to someone who loves seafood as much as I do. And all bragging aside, I have eaten some ridiculously good seafood --- in Maine, Costa Rica, New York City and Nice, France, among other places. But my favorite so far is Warung Manega in Senggigi. Super-fresh fish is grilled over smoky coconut husks and then served with four different sauces --- sambal, garlic, sweet soy and chili-lime-vinegar. We had red snapper, but I bet the grouper and king prawns are rockin,’ too. With greens, white rice and limeade, about $12 per person. Simple but so delicious, I wanted to hire a cab and drive the hour to return for dinner the next night. I should have. For those who like to dine al fresco, you can eat on tables set up in the sand.

Grilled red snapper. It doesn't get better.

Does it sound like I enjoyed Lombok? I did; I absolutely loved it. One of the highlights of Mondo Indo for sure. And now, I'm off to Ubud, Bali. Please check back soon, and thanks so much for coming along with me!